True West

The next day, we saddled up the F-250 and headed east for Nevada City, Montana, and neighboring Virginia City. The air was hazy with forest fire smoke, but we could see we were still in prime fishing country, if the small businesses serving the fishing crowd were any indication. Nearing our first destination, we came upon this historical marker:

Robber's Roost, according to lore, was where Sheriff's Plummer's gang, the Innocents, watched traffic between the mining towns Bannack and Virginia City, picking out likely targets for holdups. The actual building at the site is a stage stop built slightly after the hangings.

Nevada City, Montana

One of several towns that sprang up during the Alder Gulch gold rush, Nevada City and its neighbor, Virginia City, were main trade centers serving the thousands that flooded into the surrounding hillsides. The town is a museum, and there is a small gauge railroad connecting it to Virginia City. Many of the buildings here were relocated from nearby Montana locations, to be preserved for the enjoyment of all. Visitors can stay in one of 18 cabins, all built prior to 1900, that have been fitted for use as motel units.

Several of the buildings have been featured in film. The Cheap Cash Store (1867/Radersburg) was featured in the 1885 History of Montana. Viewers of 2002's PBS series “Frontier House” will enjoy seeing cabins used for training of the Brooks, Clune, and Glenn families in preparation for their homestead experiences.

Criterion Hall has appeared in many movies, including “Missouri Breaks,” “Thousand Pieces of Gold,” and “Return to Lonesome Dove.”

As we strolled around Nevada City and peeked into windows, I could easily imagine any number of scenarios. I was an extra in a western movie. No, I actually was there, in Gold Rush days.

Here's the store where I will buy some warm gloves for winter.

I'm a teacher at the one-room school, living in the little teacherage on the backside of the building.

I imagined a couple other little vignettes, too, but would be a little embarrased relate them. Did I mention that I have an active imagination?

Speaking of which, I get dibs on the top floor of this 2-story outhouse!

One end of the town is devoted to “China Town,” representing the often forgotten Chinese presence in old West Montana territory. In 1870, 10% of the territorial population was Chinese.

Before leaving, we spent a few minutes enjoying the player pianos and other mechanical instruments on display. We invested ten cents in hearing this automatic harp.

Virginia City, Montana

Just a couple miles down the road, we came to Virginia City. It was lunch time, and I had planned one of our rare splurges, lunch at a restaurant. We sat at a small table on the front porch and had delicious hamburgers with all the trimmings. There was a light breeze, and the temperature was just perfect. We felt like regular tourists. (Does that mean we're usually “irregular”?) This old car really was parked right there. I waited until a more modern vehicle next to it was gone before taking this picture.

Virginia City is actually the county seat, so while it's very touristy, it's also a real town, with people's real lives playing out. Sometimes, when visiting these incredibly picturesque little towns, it's easy to forget that. We parked near the courthouse—perhaps somebody was enduring a nasty court hearing there that very minute. I hoped not.

We strolled down one side of the street and up the other. Rank's Mercantile (est. 1864) was my favorite store. Here's where to go to get the latest Old West fashions. My, if this place didn't fire up my imagination. I have read about people who only dress in historical costume—wouldn't that be fun? How funny that I say that, as I normally make great efforts to NOT attract attention. Still, here I was actually thinking about it, as I have before (yes, really). No matter how ordinary someone may look, you never really know quite what goes on inside their head, do you?

Further down the street were a couple shops that were museums, where I found this. Even my imagination can't quite picture my figure merging with this corset.

I managed not to buy anything at this candy shop, either.

On our way up the other side of the street, this stagecoach passed by. Touristy, but fun!

On our way to Virginia City from Nevada City, Jan had seen this sign

and he was looking forward to stopping at the River of Gold on our way back. He had a great time and, as gold panning is a hobby of his, he ended up helping other visitors learn panning techniques (which earned him some extra dirt to take with him for later panning). He found several garnets and a little color (what prospectors say if they find flecks of gold). One of the others found a garnet with gold on it.

We headed back to our Dillon base of operations, tired but happy.